Literally

It's one of those places I found by chance while wandering about alleys of Staré Město. Near the square and Charle's Bridge, around the corner from the legendary Týgra, but at the same time, light years away from all the rat race. Literární Kávarna (Literary Cafe) Řetězová is just as I like them. Old fashioned furniture, real wood, looking pretty worn out, it invites you to stay, maybe reading a good book or smoking a cigar.

The walls are full of black and white photos, mostly from heroes of Czech contemporary Literature. The ceilings are vaulted and there are persian rugs on the floor.

But the thing I liked the most from the beginning, and actually, what made me walk into this kavárna is their choice of beers. Bernard, no less, they tap desítka, světlá dvanactká kvansicové and the gorgeus tmavé speciál 13°.

When I go I usually start by dvanactká kvansicové. I let myself be carried by its fruity flavours, while soaking up the atmosphere and letting my thoughts go for a walk. Then I go for its darker sister. Its intense roasted flavours almost force me to drink it slowly and relax. Sometimes, I don't even bother to read the book I might have.

At midday they offer a lunch menu, soup and a main course. I've never had it, but they do look fine. The rest of the offer is the expected from a Prague's coffee house, no surprises there. Literární Kávarna Řetězová is a lovely place to sit down to rest your feet or to shelter from the crowds and the madness of the centre. Highly recommended in a rainy afternoon.

Literární Kávarna Řetězová
Řetězová 10
Staré Město, Prague 1


If you find it full and don't want to wait who knows how long for a table to get free, just walk about 100m towards the river, where Řetězová becomes Anenská. There you will find Konírna, a small but cozy café-bistro. There you can choose the salad bar or some of the snacks to go with the Bernard beer the tap, in this case desítka, polotmavé 11° dvanactká.